Recent social media chatter has fuelled concerns among UK nail professionals about a potential ban on HEMA, a common chemical in gel polishes and acrylic systems. However, experts confirm that no such ban is currently in place or planned for professional-use nail products.
HEMA, or Hydroxyethyl methacrylate, functions as a monomer that hardens under UV/LED light. Its adhesive qualities and strength make it a key ingredient in gel polish, acrylic systems, and nail primers. The chemical also finds application in printing inks, contact lenses, and dental fillings.
While HEMA is widely used, it has become associated with rising allergic reactions in the nail industry. Cosmetic chemistry expert Doug Schoon explains that risks increase when uncured product contacts skin or is improperly cured, often due to poor product formulation. For this reason, HEMA and a similar ingredient, DI-HEMA trimethylhexyl dicarbamate, are restricted to professional-use products in the EU and UK.
Since June 3, 2021, EU regulations mandate that professional nail products containing HEMA must display 'For professional use only' and 'Can cause an allergic reaction' warnings. Concentrations of HEMA in UK professional nail products generally range from 4% to 35%, with 35% being the recommended maximum limit.
Despite social media rumours, Caroline Rainsford of the CTPA and Doug Schoon state they are unaware of any plans from UK or EU authorities to alter current HEMA regulations. Claims of an impending ban are unsubstantiated. While a ban for professional products is not on the horizon, many brands now offer HEMA-free alternatives for clients with sensitivities. Safe practice, including glove use and avoiding skin contact, remains crucial for both technicians and clients.
