Understanding a client's hair porosity is as vital as selecting the correct colour shade for consistent results. Suzie McGill, Artistic Director at Rainbow Room International, highlights that multi-porous hair, which exhibits varied porosity levels, demands a tailored colouring strategy.
Hair porosity stems from cuticle condition. Tightly closed cuticles in low-porosity hair resist colour absorption, while raised cuticles in high-porosity hair accept colour rapidly but struggle with retention. Multi-porous hair presents a combination, often with roots showing low porosity and mid-lengths to ends displaying higher porosity. This variation can lead to patchy colour, faster fading in porous areas, and potential texture changes or breakage from over-processing.
McGill advocates for a systematic approach. She advises assessing porosity section by section before formulation. Incorporating bond builders and treatments pre- and post-colour helps equalise porosity and preserve hair health. Custom formulations that vary pigment strength and developer across different sections are key. Techniques like balayage can work with, rather than against, natural porosity differences. Maintaining a balance of moisture and protein through alternating treatments ensures hair remains healthy and colour longevity.
Educating clients on managing multi-porous hair with regular treatments, gentle shampoos, and mindful heat styling is also crucial. When approached correctly, multi-porosity isn't a drawback but an opportunity for bespoke colour services that deliver even, healthy, and lasting results. The challenge for colourists lies in mastering these customisation techniques.
