London Fashion Week AW26 showcased hair as a narrative element, moving beyond mere aesthetics to embody themes of travel, heritage, control, and rebellion. This season saw a distinct split between raw, textured styles and highly polished, sculptural looks, indicating an intentional approach to styling that complements collection themes.
Designers at Simone Rocha presented weathered, wind-swept hair, drawing inspiration from photographer Perry Ogden’s book ‘Pony Kids.’ Anthony Turner, leading the Sebastian Professional team, aimed for an exaggerated reality. Shorter styles mimicked the effects of travel and elemental control, highlighting a narrative of journeys and past experiences.
Conversely, Paul Costelloe’s collection featured hair smoothed into low, sculpted chignons. Cos Sakkas and the TONI&GUY team created an architectural silhouette that mirrored the precise tailoring of William Costelloe’s debut. This focus on high-shine and controlled structure signals a return to refined aesthetics.
Erdem’s show, with KEVIN.MURPHY, embraced individuality over uniformity. Eugene Souleiman encouraged models to express their natural texture, resulting in looks that were romantic yet grounded. This approach suggests a move towards enhancing personal characteristics rather than imposing a singular style.
At FASHION EAST, Lachlan Mackie for Bumble and bumble drew inspiration from the natural world. Raw, organic textures and matte finishes evoked driftwood and coastal cliffs, aligning with the collection’s deconstructed, found-object aesthetic. This captures a sense of being weathered by the elements.
Chet Lo’s presentation, styled by Anna Cofone using Authentic Beauty Concept products, featured ultra-glossed, glass-like hair with sculptural accents. Cofone predicts a resurgence of this ultra-straight, high-shine style, marking a shift towards control and refinement after seasons of more natural textures.
The trend towards narrative hair extended to Tolu Coker’s collection, where Efi Davies for TONI&GUY created structured looks inspired by the 90s. Similar explorations of control and rebellion were seen at Pauline Dujancourt’s show. Anna Cofone styled hair to appear conforming at the front, contrasting with a dishevelled, matte finish at the back, symbolising liberation.
Overall, AW26 hair at London Fashion Week presented a duality: either a deep dive into natural textures and imperfections, or a commitment to extreme polish and architectural forms. Both approaches underscore hair as a powerful storytelling tool, directly reflecting the collection’s mood and inspiration.
